I-Sorovako, ekwisiqithi sase-Indonesia sase-Sulawesi, yenye yezona migodi ezinkulu ze-nickel emhlabeni. I-Nickel yinxalenye engabonakaliyo yezinto ezininzi zemihla ngemihla: iyanyamalala kwinsimbi engenasici, izinto zokufudumeza kwizixhobo zendlu kunye ne-electrodes kwiibhetri. Yasekwa ngaphezu kwezigidi ezibini zeminyaka eyadlulayo xa iinduli ezijikeleze iSorovako zaqala ukubonakala kunye neempazamo ezisebenzayo. ILaterites – imihlaba etyebileyo nge-iron oxide nenickel – yenziwa ngenxa yokukhukuliseka okungapheliyo kweemvula zetropikhi. Xa ndiqhuba isithuthuthu ndinyuka induli, umhlaba wakhawuleza watshintsha umbala wababomvu onemigca e-blood-orenji. Ndandibona isityalo senickel ngokwaso, itshimini enothuli emdaka erhabaxa elingana nesixeko. Amavili elori amancinci alingana nemoto afumbile. Iindlela ezinqumla kwiinduli ezibomvu kunye neminatha emikhulu ithintela ukudilika komhlaba. Inkampani yasezimayini iMercedes-Benz iibhasi ezinemigangatho emibini zithwala abasebenzi. Iflegi yale nkampani iphaphatheka ziilori zenkampani kunye nee-ambulensi ezingekho ezindleleni. Umhlaba uneenduli kwaye unemingxuma, kwaye umhlaba obomvu osicaba ugoqwe ube yitrapezoid egosogoso. Esi siza sigadwe ngocingo oluhlabayo, iigeyithi, izibane zendlela kunye namapolisa ashishinayo ajikeleza kwindawo yemvume ephantse ilingane neLondon.
Lo mgodi uqhutywa yi-PT Vale, ephethwe ngoorhulumente base-Indonesia naseBrazil ngokuyinxenye, inezabelo eziphethwe yi-Canadian, Japanese kunye namanye amashishini aphuma kumazwe ngamazwe. I-Indonesia ngoyena mvelisi we-nickel omkhulu kwihlabathi, kwaye iVale ingowesibini ngobukhulu emsebenzini wasemgodini we-nickel emva kweNorilsk Nickel, inkampani yaseRussia ephuhlisa iidiphozithi zaseSiberia. NgoMatshi, emva kohlaselo lwaseRussia lwaseUkraine, amaxabiso enickel aphindwe kabini ngosuku kwaye urhwebo kwiLondon Metal Exchange lwanqunyanyiswa kangangeveki. Iziganeko ezinje zenza abantu abafana no-Elon Musk bazibuze ukuba i-nickel yabo ivela phi. NgoMeyi, wadibana noMongameli wase-Indonesia uJoko Widodo ukuba axoxe "ngobambiswano" olunokwenzeka. Unomdla kuba iimoto zombane zomgama omde zifuna i-nickel. Ibhetri yeTesla iqulethe malunga neekhilogram ezingama-40. Ngokungathandabuzekiyo, urhulumente wase-Indonesian unomdla kakhulu ekufudukeleni kwizithuthi zombane kunye nezicwangciso zokwandisa iimvume zemigodi. Okwangoku, uVale uzimisele ukwakha izinyibilikisi ezimbini ezintsha eSorovaco kunye nokuphucula enye yazo.
Ukumbiwa kwe-nickel e-Indonesia luphuhliso olutsha. Ekuqaleni kwenkulungwane yama-20, urhulumente wamakholoniyali we-Dutch East Indies waqala ukuba nomdla “kwimpahla ye-peripheral”, iziqithi ngaphandle kweJava kunye neMadura, ezenza ubuninzi beziqithi. Kwi-1915, injineli yezimayini yaseDatshi u-Eduard Abendanon wabika ukuba ufumene idiphozithi ye-nickel eSorovako. Kwiminyaka engamashumi amabini emva koko, u-HR “Flat” Elves, ingcali yokwakheka komhlaba nenkampani yaseKhanada i-Inco, wafika wemba umngxuma wovavanyo. E-Ontario, i-Inco isebenzisa i-nickel ukwenza iingqekembe kunye neenxalenye zezixhobo, iibhombu, iinqanawa kunye neefektri. Iinzame ze-Elves zokwandisa kwi-Sulawesi zatshitshiswa ngokuhlala kweJapan e-Indonesia ngo-1942. Kuze kube sekubuyeni kwe-Inco kwi-1960s, i-nickel yayingachaphazeleki kakhulu.
Ngokuphumelela kwi-concession ye-Sorovaco ngo-1968, i-Inco yayinethemba lokuzuza inzuzo kwintabalala yabasebenzi abaphantsi kunye neekontraka ezithengisa ngaphandle. Icebo yayikukwakha umatshini wokunyibilikisa, idama lokuwutyisa, kunye nekwari, kuze kungeniswe abasebenzi baseKhanada ukuze balawule yonke loo nto. I-Inco yayifunela abaphathi bayo indawo ekhuselekileyo, ihlomela ledolophu eligcinwe kakuhle kuMntla Merika kwihlathi laseIndonesia. Ukuyakha, baqesha amalungu ombutho womoya waseIndonesia iSubud. Inkokeli kunye nomseki wayo nguMuhammad Subuh, owayesebenza njengomgcini-zincwadi eJava ngeminyaka yoo-1920. Uthi ngobunye ubusuku, xa wayehamba, kwawela phezu kwentloko yakhe ibhola eliyimfama. Oku kwakusenzeka kuye ubusuku ngabunye kangangeminyaka eliqela, yaye, ngokutsho kwakhe, kwavula “unxibelelwano phakathi kwamandla kaThixo azalise indalo iphela nomphefumlo womntu.” Ngeminyaka yoo-1950, wayesele efikile kwingqwalasela ka-John Bennett, umhloli wamafutha efosili yaseBritani kunye nomlandeli we-mystic George Gurdjieff. U-Bennett wamema u-Subuh eNgilani ngo-1957 waza wabuyela eJakarta kunye neqela elitsha labafundi baseYurophu nase-Australia.
Ngo-1966, lo mbutho wadala inkampani yobunjineli engasebenzi kakuhle ebizwa ngokuba yi-International Design Consultants, eyakha izikolo kunye nezakhiwo zeeofisi eJakarta (ikwayile isicwangciso esikhulu se-Darling Harbor eSydney). Uphakamisa i-outopia ye-extractivist e-Sorovako, i-enclave ehlukileyo kuma-Indonesia, kude ne-chaos yemigodi, kodwa ibonelelwe ngokupheleleyo ngabo. Ngomnyaka we-1975, indawo evulekileyo enevenkile enkulu, iinkundla zentenetya kunye neklabhu yegalufa yabasebenzi bamanye amazwe yakhiwa kumgama oziikhilomitha ezimbalwa ukusuka eSorovako. Amapolisa abucala agada umjikelezo kunye nokungena kwivenkile enkulu. I-Inco ibonelela ngombane, amanzi, izifudumezi-moya, iifowuni kunye nokutya okuvela kumazwe angaphandle. Ngokutsho kukaKatherine May Robinson, isazi ngembali yabantu esasiqhuba umsebenzi apho phakathi kowe-1977 nowe-1981, “amabhinqa aseBermuda iibhulukhwe ezimfutshane neebhanzi ayesiya evenkileni ukuya kuthenga ipizza ekhenkcezisiweyo aze amise ukuze afumane amashwamshwam aze asele ikofu ngaphandle. Igumbi elinomoya opholileyo elisendleleni egodukayo “libubuxoki bale mihla” elivela kwindlu yomhlobo.
I-enclave isagadiwe kwaye igadiwe. Ngoku iinkokeli zaseIndonesia ezikwizikhundla eziphezulu zihlala apho, kwindlu enegadi egcinwe kakuhle. Kodwa iindawo zikawonke-wonke zizele lukhula, isamente eqhekekileyo, namabala okudlala anomhlwa. Ezinye ii-bungalows zilahliwe kwaye amahlathi athathe indawo yawo. Ndaxelelwa ukuba esi sikhewu sisiphumo sokufumana kukaVale i-Inco kwi-2006 kunye nokuhamba ukusuka kwixesha elizeleyo ukuya kumsebenzi wekhontrakthi kunye nabasebenzi abahambahambayo. Ukwahlula phakathi kwamadlelo kunye ne-Sorovako ngoku kusekelwe kwiklasi: abaphathi bahlala kwiidolophu, abasebenzi bahlala kwisixeko.
Umnyinyiva ngokwawo awufikeleleki, malunga ne-12,000 yeekhilomitha zeekhilomitha zeentaba ezinemithi ejikelezwe ngamacingo. Amasango aliqela aphethwe ngabantu kwaye neendlela zigadiwe. Indawo esembiwe ngokukhutheleyo – ephantse ibe yi-75 square kilometers – ibiyelwe ngocingo oluhlabayo. Ngobunye ubusuku ndandikhwele isithuthuthu sam ndaza ndema. Andizange ndiyibone imfumba ye<em>slag efihlwe emva komqolo, kodwa ndabukela iintsalela ze<em>smelt, ezazisekufutshane nobushushu be<em>lava, zisihla entabeni. Kwakhanya isibane esiorenji, emva koko kwavela ilifu ebumnyameni, lanwenwa lade laphetshethwa ngumoya. Rhoqo kwimizuzu embalwa, ugqabhuko-dubulo olutsha olwenziwe ngumntu lukhanyisa isibhakabhaka.
Ekuphela kwendlela abantu abangaqeshwanga abanokuthi bachwechwe ngayo kumgodi weLake Matano, ndiye ndakhwela isikhephe. Emva koko uAmos, owayehlala elunxwemeni, wandikhokelela emasimini epepile sada saya kufika ezantsi kwindawo eyayikade iyintaba yaye ngoku iliqokobhe elinomgongxo, ukungabikho. Ngamanye amaxesha unokwenza uhambo oluya kwindawo yemvelaphi, kwaye mhlawumbi le ndawo apho inxalenye ye-nickel ivela kwizinto ezinegalelo ekuhambeni kwam: iimoto, iinqwelomoya, ii-scooters, iilaptops, iifowuni.
Editor London Review of Books, 28 Little Russell Street London, WC1A 2HNletters@lrb.co.uk Please provide name, address and telephone number.
The Editor London Review of Books 28 Little Russell Street London, WC1A 2HN Letters@lrb.co.uk Please provide name, address and phone number
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